Shebakia: A sweet blend of eastern Andalusian origins in Morocco
Moroccan cuisine is so rich in dishes and sweets that almost every city or region has its own specialty. However, there are sweets that unite Moroccans on certain occasions. For example, it's impossible to imagine a Moroccan breakfast table during Ramadan, regardless of the family's status, without "H'rira" and "Shebakia" - the two dishes that make breakfast incomplete.
It's "Shebakia", "Makrouta", "Zlabia", "Koelche"... names that vary from region to region. For some Moroccans, having this sweet at breakfast is almost a prerequisite. They jokingly say, "Breakfast without shebakia is frowned upon". But rarely do Moroccans inquire about the origin of this pastry, how it came to be so important during Ramadan as opposed to other occasions. Is it an indigenous Moroccan sweet, or did it arrive in Morocco and Moroccans adapted it to their culture and civilization, making it part of their culinary identity?
As Sha'ban approaches and Ramadan approaches, Moroccans flock to grocery stores to stock up on supplies for making shebakia. Shops specializing in this peculiar sweet proliferate, their fronts adorned with towering piles, and their tantalizing aroma fills the air of homes. What many Moroccans may not know is that this dessert exists in several countries and is abundant in the Maghreb, the Levant, the Arabian Peninsula, Egypt and Iraq. There are similar versions in East Africa, in places like Zanzibar and the Comoros Islands, extending its presence to the borders of India and Bangladesh. Each of these countries and others can claim the origin of shebakia, claiming that others have adopted it from them. Especially since it's a staple food in all these regions, based on a similar recipe (mix flour with water, fry in oil and sweeten with honey...).
The name "Shebakia" remains exclusively Moroccan and is not used by any country other than Morocco. It's a fitting name for the shape of this sweet because the fingers that form it "carefully interlock in a circular, ascending pattern," making the act of forming a locally registered trademark. The term "zlabia," commonly used in the eastern regions of Morocco, is also common among Morocco's neighbors, such as Algerians and Tunisians.
Shebakia is an ancient sweet, and evidence of its antiquity can be found in the description provided by Ibn al-Rumi when he said:
"I saw it as if performing magic roasting Zlabia - In the softness of the crust and the hollow like a reed,
As if its oil was boiling when it appeared - Like alchemy, they said, yet untouched.
The dough is thrown like mud from his fingers - And the shebakia forms become impossible of gold".
It seems from Ibn al-Rumi's description that he is indeed referring to "shebakia", whether in its method of preparation (frying), its color (turning from white to golden), or in its description (zlabia, the softness of the crust, the shapes of shebakia).
Research into the origins of this sweet leads to many stories and interpretations. Some say its origin is Turkish, attributing it to a Turkish baker who accidentally changed the proportions of his dough, resulting in a lighter, more liquid-like consistency. Lacking enough flour to make the dough firm and cohesive, he exclaimed, "This is a mistake of mine!" and to cover up his mistake, he coated it with honey after frying.
Others attribute it to Andalusian origins, tracing it back to the time of Abu Abdullah Ibn al-Ahmar, the ruler of Granada. He challenged the cooks to create a dessert suitable for breaking the fast, and they competed to fulfill his request by rushing to the palace. One of the chefs, pressed for time, slipped and stumbled, limping, and presented the sweet to the prince. When asked about his limp, he replied, "It's a slip of mine," referring to his foot. When the prince tasted and admired it, he called it "Zlabia.
Some scholars link it to the travels of the musician Ziyab from Mosul, who traveled through North African countries before settling in Andalusia. It was originally called "Ziyabiya" before the name was changed to "Zlabia". Other stories associate it with a baker from the Biyazin district of Granada who was detained by the police for three days. When he was released, he found that his dough had overflowed and, unable to throw it away, he fried it and dipped it in honey to mask his disappointment. It turned out to be a sweet and delicious treat.
Despite all these differences in the origin and roots of shebakia, Morocco has succeeded in making it a distinctly Moroccan sweet. Just as the Moroccans succeeded in making tea, originally from China, so popular that it became more famous than its country of origin, they did the same with this pastry. The Moroccans called it "shebakia" and its fame soared, reaching the United Kingdom and France, where similar sweets were found under names close to "shebakia" and in their method of preparation.
The Moroccans transformed this pastry by adding ingredients and spices, moving away from the simple use of flour, water, frying in oil and sprinkling with honey. They infused it with flavors and embellishments, refining its components by adding rose water, "miskat hura" (a mixture of spices), almonds, and sprinkling it with sesame seeds (gul-gul'an) before serving. To the extent that a Moroccan feels it has become part of his identity.
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